PARIS WITH A TODDLER & A DOG
Baby 12–18 months · Small dog under 10kg
We loved Paris. Definitely going again and surprisingly baby/kid friendly- it’s all up to what you make it though.
01 — Getting There From the Airport
Most international flights arrive at Charles de Gaulle (CDG). From there, skip the RER (the regional express train) — it's the fastest route into the city on paper, about 35 minutes, but it involves long corridors, heavy doors, multiple staircases, and packed carriages with zero space for a stroller, dog carrier, and luggage. What looks like a time-saver becomes an obstacle course. Not worth it.
Uber Pet is hands-down the best option from the airport. We learned this the hard way: our first driver accepted the ride and then left us stranded at the curb when he saw the dog — no warning, just gone. Our second driver showed up, took one look at our luggage, and couldn't fit it all in his car. By the time we were finally on our way, we'd lost nearly an hour at the airport with a tired toddler and a stressed dog. Paris has strict insurance rules around dogs in private cars, and Uber Pet drivers are specifically covered for traveling with animals — so select it from the start and skip the chaos we went through.
If for any reason Uber Pet isn't available and you request a regular Uber, message the driver immediately after booking to let them know you have a pet. Don't wait until they arrive — give them the chance to confirm or cancel before you're already standing at the curb with everything.
One important note on luggage: always request a larger vehicle (UberXL or similar) when you book if you have more than 3 bags. Standard sedans simply can't fit a stroller, dog carrier, and a family's worth of bags for a longer trip. Request big, arrive calm.
Also, rush-hour is the same in Paris- either brace for it or plan around it.
02 — Where to Stay
With a toddler and a dog on an extended trip, an apartment rental (Airbnb, VRBO, or One Fine Stay if you want to splurg) is almost always the better choice over a hotel. You get space to move around, a kitchen for baby food and bottles, laundry in the building, and room for a pack-and-play. Hotels in Paris are famously small — add a crib and there's genuinely no floor space left. Comfort is key because you will inevitably be exchaused and you want to be cozy when you don’t get to go out.
Best arrondissements for families with dogs:
1st — Louvre / Tuileries (Best all-rounder) Walkable to major sights, the Tuileries gardens, playgrounds. Wide pavements, relatively flat. Central to everything.
6th — Saint-Germain (Dog paradise) Café de Flore, Luxembourg Gardens, charming streets. Quintessentially Parisian. Dog culture at its peak.
10th — Canal Saint-Martin / République (Our pick — underrated gem) We stayed here and it was genuinely one of the best decisions we made. Low-key, not touristy, with some of the most delicious food right on the doorstep — we barely had to walk far for dinner on any night. Markets nearby made emergency supply runs easy. The Canal Saint-Martin is also one of the best dog walks in the city.
18th — Montmartre (Most charming) Dog park with Eiffel Tower views, artists, cozy cafés. Steep in places — challenging for strollers but beautiful for longer walks.
If you do want a hotel: Confirm pet policies in writing before you book; some hotels charge a nightly pet fee of around €20–30.
03 — Getting Around the City
Here's the honest truth about the Paris Métro: it's wonderful if you're solo. With a stroller and a dog? It's a workout. Only about half the stations have escalators and far fewer have lifts — you will be carrying your folded stroller down staircases.
The Tootbus was our secret weapon. It hits all the main sights — Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame, the Louvre, Champs-Élysées and more — passes every 15 minutes, and you can hop on and off as many times as you want throughout the day. With a toddler and a dog, it meant we could do a full day of sightseeing without calling an Uber every time we wanted to move. Far more affordable than piecing together rides, and frankly more fun — our toddler was obsessed with being on the bus (also she was free!)
The city bus is also excellent for getting around day-to-day. All Paris buses have ramps and dedicated stroller spaces. Children under 4 ride free on all public transit. Small dogs can ride in a carrier at no charge. Download the Bonjour RATP app for real-time routing. Avoid rush hour (8:30–10am, 5–6:30pm).
Walking is still how you'll discover the best of Paris.
Taxis / rideshare — when you're tired and it's 7pm and your toddler is having a full collapse, call a cab, but it will probably be pricey. However, it's usually worth it and you’re on vacation.
Stroller advice: Bring a lightweight, one-hand collapsible stroller. We used Mamazing— it folds in seconds and fits in overhead bins. A heavy travel system will exhaust you by day two.
04 — Eating Out & IN
We learned— that in a day, we had to pick either lunch or dinner out- for some reason, doing both at a restaurant (after sightseeing or hitting other spots) was mission impossible. You can try, we warned you.
Lunch over dinner worked for us because by dinner Emmy was done with the day. We would also sporatically decide to do dinner if she fell asleep on the walk- find a place, don’t get overstimulated and take in the sweet silence.
Eat early by French standards — arriving at 7pm (not 8:30) means a quieter restaurant, more patient staff, and less chaos if your toddler has a moment. We never made a reservation and had amazing meals, never got denied. (We also went in slow season)
High chairs (une chaise haute) exist but are not guaranteed. Many small bistros simply don't have them. The outcome: carrier for arrival, on your lap or in their own “grown-up” chair for dinner.
Changing tables are rare in Paris restaurants so in the stroller or quick outdoor change before entering was usually the move.
Finally, UBER EATS DELIVERY FEE IS 1 EURO. The food gets to you in under 10minutes it’s insane compared to the USA and we did this ALOT.
05 — Dog-Friendly Paris
Paris has over 300,000 dogs — roughly one for every seven residents. They sit under restaurant tables at bistros, ride on metro laps, and are greeted by strangers with more enthusiasm than even the baby. A small, well-behaved dog in Paris is practically a social asset.
More often than not, the waiter brought a bowl of water before even offering us menus.
Restaurants & cafés There is no law against dogs in Paris restaurants — it's each establishment's choice. In practice, most sit-down cafés, bistros, and brasseries welcome dogs, especially small ones. Cafés with sidewalk seating almost always allow dogs without you even needing to ask.
However, dogs are not always allowed in grocery stores, open-air food markets, or any food retail shop.
06 — Baby & Toddler Essentials in Paris
Diapers & supplies French pharmacies (look for the green cross) stock diapers, wipes, formula, and baby medication. Monoprix and Carrefour supermarkets also carry baby basics. For organic pouches and pre-made toddler meals, French brands are excellent.
08 — Museums — What's Worth It
One museum, one day. Two max. This is not the trip for an eight-hour Louvre marathon. Choose one wing, have one goal, and leave while it's still fun.
Book skip-the-line tickets in advance
The Louvre — we went in through the free section, which lets you experience the iconic pyramid, free exhibitions, the underground spaces, and the atmosphere without committing to hours of galleries. Totally worth it, zero guilt about leaving early. The underground mall is also a lifesaver: clean bathrooms, escalators, and a café for emergency snacks.
Dogs are not allowed in any museum or church
09 — Packing List (little details to not forget)
For the baby:
Lightweight collapsible stroller (mamazing)
Baby carrier / ergonomic wrap
Small first-aid kit (you know best)
Stroller snow cover (will save you when all the blankets are dirty)
small toys or buy a book when you get there
For the dog:
EU health certificate / travel documents (accessible, not in checked luggage)
Airline-approved soft carrier
Enough home food for the whole trip (dietary changes upset dogs)
Collapsible travel water bowl
Familiar toy or blanket
Poop bags (always more than you think)
10 — HAVE FUN
You don't need to see everything, and you won’t. You just need to be there— and Paris will do the rest.
Take it SLOW. Say yes to the carousel. Let the dog get petted. Order the crêpe. The Louvre will be there tomorrow.
